8/22/14

Viktor gör Slartibartfast

My good friend Viktor came for a visit a few days ago and got to try some of the bouldering we have up here in Lofoten! The potential for new development is enormous and so far mainly  road side classics  has been developed. The last few week I have put a little effort in to brush up new stuff and it seams that if you are just willing to walk a little further than 100m there's so much to do! I have so far brushed up about ten boulders and put them out on 27crags.com as open projects since I don't have time to finish them of myself but they are free for all to go do if they pass by!

One of the best boulders around that I've climbed so far is definitely Slartibartfast an over hanging sandstone boulder in Skokkelvika about 30 minutes from Henningsvaer. Here's a video of Viktor doing it in between rain showers on his last day here in lofoten!

   

Skokkelvika, Slartibartfast 7B+ from Viktor Persson on Vimeo.

8/16/14

Minnesrisset aka Memorycrack

Since I first came to Lofoten in 2010 I've been looking at this climb dreaming of being able to do it some time.. actually.. Back then I was impressed by anyone that would even dare to go try a route at that difficulty. To me trad climbing has been a slow progression, trying something over my limit four years ago was (in my head) equal to danger and too much risk. But slowly, for me, hard trad climbs has taken more and more of my interest and now days I have more confidence in at least trying routes at my limit. 

Shortly after I arrived to Lofoten in the end of June my good friend Lars Martin had started projecting Minnesrisset and enthusiastically gave me a minor novel of the steep nature of the route, cruxes and various beta sequences he'd found out to be working. Exited we went out with Cody Scarpella that had been working the route together with Lars Martin. I got the honor to belay Cody on his send of it that day and afterwords I tried it on top rope and surprised my self by feeling strong on it. 
I went home with confidence that I would do it pretty fast. 
The following sessions got me down on earth again and I realized that this route didn't have anything to do with hard crux moves. It is just a pump fest from bottom to top with a long thougher section that involves some spectacular moves even though the jams stay good through out most of the climb.
I found it very different to work a pure crack climb compared to a sport route because on a sport route you have obvious holds that are easy to remember, but on a crack climb you more or less have one big hold (the crack) that will give you more or less friction, depending on where you place your hands or fingers.

In the end it took me about six days to complete the route and looking back on how I saw things in 2010 I'm now one of those Strong, impressive and fearless gear climbers even though I don't feel very impressive, strong or fearless.  

The climb was originally done by Robert Caspersen in 2002 and hadn't seen more than a hand full of ascents since then.. Until this season.
The send train took off this year by Cody sending the route impressively fast. A few weeks later I managed to do it and around the same time a Trondheim local did it. This year alone it has seen three ascents so far and most likely it will get at least one more soon.



7/20/14

MAY I?

Morgan and I went up to try his project located next to Kil-löparen. It's a thin crack  that trends slightly leftwards up the wall. superb quality up a thin that eases off as it gets wider!

7/9/14

First ascent on Geitgalertind, Lofoten

Me and my friend Lars Martin managed to do a First ascent on the SW-Face of Geitgaljertind in Lofoten. We did as much free as possible but due to wet and partly overgrown sections we did not manage to do all pitches free. The route goes as for now at A1 7 but the crown pitch (a 40 meter steep chimney will most likely end up at around 8-/8 if freed.
It took us about 16 hours from car to car, but we had some hard snow on the approach that slowed us down about 1,5 hours. In dry conditions the approach should take about 2 hours. The wall is about 320m long and Geitgaljertind is the second highest peak in Lofoten.
The route takes the most obvious line through the face and should be considered a proper alpine climb.


11/19/13

The climbingguide to Ethiopia in PDF and on 27crags.com

I've made an small PDF-guide to the climbing in the Rafu area at BMNP (Bale moutain national park).
I'm not really sure how to publish it online yet so if you want it just give me shout here or on Facebook

I've already gotten some response from the post I did in January and there is actually two expeditions going there this year as well which makes me really happy! Good luck to you guys and I hope to get a report of your trips when your done so we can make an update of the guide :)

The PDF-guide which hopefully gives you useful info when planing to go there is built around names, grades and coordinates of the boulders/sectors that you can copy/paste to 27crags.com/Google
I've uploaded the pictures to 27crags.com and you can copy/paste the coordinates to google to get accurate locations of the boulders

Hope you like it and please feel free to contact me if you just want to have a look at the PDF even though your not planing to go there I need feed back!

Cheerio!

1/20/13

Ethiopia!

One week has past since I came back to the order in sweden. I've been to Ethiopia for 2,5 weeks on a climbing expedition with Adam Herring and my brother Johannes. Our plan was to explore the Sanetti plateau in bale mountain national park for potential bouldering but also trad-climbing.
The Sanetti plateau has a section called Rafu which is a big lava flow that has swept over the Sanetti plateau and  this was also the area were we stayed for 12 days and climbed and brushed boulders non stop.
The area is at least a 2x3 square kilometer ocean of blocks between 1-30m high. And alot of the taller blocks has the potential to house some very spectacular sport climbing pitches :).

Adam was the initiative holder of this trip in the first place since he had been to Ethiopia many times before. Three years prior to our expedition, Adam made his first trip to Bale mountains to trek in the Harrena forests. During this trek he stubbled upon a boulder and as all climbers know you can't just wlk by a boulder without making sure that there is no potential way up. It's not a hindrance for a true climbing pioneer even though the boulder might be small and the potential line so contrived that you need to dig a big hole in the ground only to find a defined low sit start. Of course you need to dig this hole because establishing a pure mantle problem is an evil invention of the devil and those who advocates those typs of boulders are non reliable and minions of the evil powers.

However, In Adams head the seed was planted and he went home with the optimistic thought that "if there is one boulder there must be more". He started searching on the internet and on google earth and soon found pictures on big lava flows that swept along the Sanetti plateu that seemd to be housing boulders in unimaginable quantities.
In the autumn of 2012 Adam showed me some pictures of the area and it didn't take me long time to decide to tag along. Emil had already decided to come and soon my brother also jumped on the train.

The result after the trip was about 60 new boulders between 5a and 7c, and considering the trad climbing we are still very optimistic even though we didn't anything stunning. The main reason for this was that the rock quality tended too differ quite a bit. Our scouting with binoculars kept us with an optimistic felling for trad climbing on som big walls in the distans, but all those FAs are still up or grabs :).
















12/3/12

Summer of 2012

The summer of 2012 has been really nice with four weeks of climbing in france and two weeks in Lofoten

Lofoten offered  a lot  of rain (as usual). However the nice thing with Lofoten is that it does'nt really matter because it dries so fast. I didn't really have any specific climbing goals with the trip but in the end I managed to gather a quite nice tick list.
Me and Magnus Eriksson did a fun but unsuccessful attempt on the supposedly unrepeated Himmel o Helvete on Presten, but after the three initial pitches it became too scary when we had to do an unprotected traverse for ten meters followed by another 10-15m of badly protected seam/slab climbing.

One of the first days me and Frida went to Eggum to do some sport climbing. This place blew me away with the most rare granit formations I've ever seen! It's litterally coverd with pockets and amazing tufa formations.
Recommended routes that I did are Commando, Gullfaks and Alopolsa.

 My last climbing day turned out to be the most produktiv one of the trip.
Me and Morgan had a early start and whent to the Gandalf wall to do The Silmarillion which has some cool climbing and a very spactacularly exposed last pitch including som roof-fistjamming.

After we had finished Sillamrillion we went home and refeuelled some energy and went to Paradiset and Butter arms to give it a last try. My fingers were very sore from the last days of crack climbing and after not making it to the top the second try I was ready to give up. But in the end I decided to give it one last go and with a big happy cry out to the world of lofoten I came to the top!

The fantastik Eggum

Can you see cheese formations?

Fresh makrill, don't forget to bring a rod!





I stayed at Morgan and Fridas place

Butter arms follows the thin crack going straight up.

A friend of Morgans tried it with me.