11/19/13

The climbingguide to Ethiopia in PDF and on 27crags.com

I've made an small PDF-guide to the climbing in the Rafu area at BMNP (Bale moutain national park).
I'm not really sure how to publish it online yet so if you want it just give me shout here or on Facebook

I've already gotten some response from the post I did in January and there is actually two expeditions going there this year as well which makes me really happy! Good luck to you guys and I hope to get a report of your trips when your done so we can make an update of the guide :)

The PDF-guide which hopefully gives you useful info when planing to go there is built around names, grades and coordinates of the boulders/sectors that you can copy/paste to 27crags.com/Google
I've uploaded the pictures to 27crags.com and you can copy/paste the coordinates to google to get accurate locations of the boulders

Hope you like it and please feel free to contact me if you just want to have a look at the PDF even though your not planing to go there I need feed back!

Cheerio!

1/20/13

Ethiopia!

One week has past since I came back to the order in sweden. I've been to Ethiopia for 2,5 weeks on a climbing expedition with Adam Herring and my brother Johannes. Our plan was to explore the Sanetti plateau in bale mountain national park for potential bouldering but also trad-climbing.
The Sanetti plateau has a section called Rafu which is a big lava flow that has swept over the Sanetti plateau and  this was also the area were we stayed for 12 days and climbed and brushed boulders non stop.
The area is at least a 2x3 square kilometer ocean of blocks between 1-30m high. And alot of the taller blocks has the potential to house some very spectacular sport climbing pitches :).

Adam was the initiative holder of this trip in the first place since he had been to Ethiopia many times before. Three years prior to our expedition, Adam made his first trip to Bale mountains to trek in the Harrena forests. During this trek he stubbled upon a boulder and as all climbers know you can't just wlk by a boulder without making sure that there is no potential way up. It's not a hindrance for a true climbing pioneer even though the boulder might be small and the potential line so contrived that you need to dig a big hole in the ground only to find a defined low sit start. Of course you need to dig this hole because establishing a pure mantle problem is an evil invention of the devil and those who advocates those typs of boulders are non reliable and minions of the evil powers.

However, In Adams head the seed was planted and he went home with the optimistic thought that "if there is one boulder there must be more". He started searching on the internet and on google earth and soon found pictures on big lava flows that swept along the Sanetti plateu that seemd to be housing boulders in unimaginable quantities.
In the autumn of 2012 Adam showed me some pictures of the area and it didn't take me long time to decide to tag along. Emil had already decided to come and soon my brother also jumped on the train.

The result after the trip was about 60 new boulders between 5a and 7c, and considering the trad climbing we are still very optimistic even though we didn't anything stunning. The main reason for this was that the rock quality tended too differ quite a bit. Our scouting with binoculars kept us with an optimistic felling for trad climbing on som big walls in the distans, but all those FAs are still up or grabs :).
















12/3/12

Summer of 2012

The summer of 2012 has been really nice with four weeks of climbing in france and two weeks in Lofoten

Lofoten offered  a lot  of rain (as usual). However the nice thing with Lofoten is that it does'nt really matter because it dries so fast. I didn't really have any specific climbing goals with the trip but in the end I managed to gather a quite nice tick list.
Me and Magnus Eriksson did a fun but unsuccessful attempt on the supposedly unrepeated Himmel o Helvete on Presten, but after the three initial pitches it became too scary when we had to do an unprotected traverse for ten meters followed by another 10-15m of badly protected seam/slab climbing.

One of the first days me and Frida went to Eggum to do some sport climbing. This place blew me away with the most rare granit formations I've ever seen! It's litterally coverd with pockets and amazing tufa formations.
Recommended routes that I did are Commando, Gullfaks and Alopolsa.

 My last climbing day turned out to be the most produktiv one of the trip.
Me and Morgan had a early start and whent to the Gandalf wall to do The Silmarillion which has some cool climbing and a very spactacularly exposed last pitch including som roof-fistjamming.

After we had finished Sillamrillion we went home and refeuelled some energy and went to Paradiset and Butter arms to give it a last try. My fingers were very sore from the last days of crack climbing and after not making it to the top the second try I was ready to give up. But in the end I decided to give it one last go and with a big happy cry out to the world of lofoten I came to the top!

The fantastik Eggum

Can you see cheese formations?

Fresh makrill, don't forget to bring a rod!





I stayed at Morgan and Fridas place

Butter arms follows the thin crack going straight up.

A friend of Morgans tried it with me.

5/16/12

Working with Stockhoms Guidebyrå

This summer I'm working for Stockholms Guidebyrå which is a company that is organizing climbing and kayaking courses. Last Saturday I held my first intro-day for climbing at Träskberget. I really enjoy this typ of work and it's a great feeling when I can share inspiration with the clients. It's cool when you can almmost take on the motivation of the group and you have their full attention.
The owners Bjorn and Stefan has managed to gather a really nice team of instructors and I am really looking forward for the summer.

Check out their webbsite at www.stockholmsguidebyra.se
   

5/7/12

Spring at Kjugekull


I went home to see my family in Skåne this Easter and managed to get one day out at good old Kjugekull! Kjuge is where my climbing career began. My friend Fredrik and I drove out at least three days a week for a whole summer with the dream to one day climb a 7a boulder. On our rest days we got psyched watching Chris Sharma and Dave graham crush hard boulders in Dosage 1 – 4. Kjugekull was my only reference at the time since I hadn’t climbed anywhere else so I didn’t think of it as very special compared to areas like Squamish and Fontainebleau. However, coming back with more experience from other places I gladly realised that this place stands really good in comparison to those world known Mekkas.
It seems like other people has the same opinion considering the amount people that choose to spend their Easter at Kjugekull!

Sitstart on Adamantium

Managed to send first try today, but I had spent two days last year.

Standing in line to try the low start of rocketeer

Did all the moves but linking it was too hard.

4/30/12

Rodellar


We spent the last week in Spain grappling tufas in Rodellar. Needless to say this place was just as amazing as the other areas. The pumpy type of climbing on long routes felt significantly harder to me than the climbing in Margalef and once again I got reminded that this is my week point and something I need work on. However I still managed to do Nanuk (7c) second go and my first 7b+ onsight.
During the six days we spent there I felt that I started to get the Idea of tufa climbing but unfortunately I got sick the last two days and had to realize that the trip was coming to an end.

My tick list for this trip ended up being beyond my expectations

  • Llima del quatre                            7c+
  •  
  • Nanuk                                              7c
  • Antologica                                      7c
  • Tarragona                                       7c
  •  
  • Tros de soca                                   7b+
  • Carcamal                                        7b+ 
  • El Clan de los M’klau                     7b+  onsight
  • Sopas de ajo                                  7b+
  • Montrgronyeta                              7b+
  • Ktploptr                                          7b+

  • Jam session                                   7b onsight
  • ?? (tres ponts)                              7b onsight
  • Bimbirimboies                               7b onsight
  • Pitus I flautes                               7b onsight
  • Mambo del ray                              7b onsight


Breakfast at the hut

Ted impresses with his send of Pince sans rire 7b+ on his second go.

Me working the crux of Nanuk 7c

Ted on the same route 

Ted resting in Gran Boveda

Ted working on Sopas de Ajo 7b+


Amazing tufas

The big hold is not a good rest hold :)


Last moves before the anchor

Kalandraka at night, a very nice climbers inn. Walking distance from all the climbing you need!

4/14/12

Margalef

Margalef is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been to and especially the area around Raco de les finestres. I would recommend anyone to go here, climber or not. It just doesn’t deserve to go unnoticed!
The climbing is just as good as they make it look in the movies, if you like pockets. Because it is all pockets, pockets, pockets. I loved it though it is quite hard on your fingers.

After about three days on, me and Bengt decided to have a rest day and go and look at the newly developed areas that we had heard of... There were talk about tufas and we just had to check out if this was true.
We walked far in to the canyon and soon we were surrounded by a jungle-like forest. After a while our trail turned in to a small path and then in to nothing more than a vague evidence that people (or animals) had been there before.
Then, there we stood with a beautiful view over an enormous wall of limestone on the other side of the canyon. We could see a few people multipitching on the wall and… there they were…the Chorreras of Margalef! We couldn’t believe the size of the tufas, they were gigantic!


All of a sudden I felt something licking my hand, surprised I looked down and saw a lone black dog standing there looking at me. I couldn’t spot the owner at first, but then a guy with blond hair came around the corner and and after him a Spanish looking girl. He looked up, called his dog and said hi with a smile. As they came closer we saw that it was no one less than Chris Sharma himself and Daila Ojeda. Chris Sharma walked past me but when he saw Bengt he reached out his hand and said. – Hey I think I’ve seen you before? Bengt shooke it, a bit stunned as if he had just met his childhood hero he replied  -I don’t know.. probably here..? Chris Sharma realized that he had mistaken Bengt for someone else so the rest of our conversation was short, we wished them good luck with their projects and they wished us a nice stay in Spain. Afterwards when Bengt came back to reality he said - Calle, you realize I can’t wash my hand for the rest of this trip!

Cranking

Nice climbing in a nice scenary

David enjoying life

Ted is catching his breath

Part of the big wall

The jungle

A climber in the center of the picture

Megatufas!